Akbari Sarai

Today has been an extraordinary day as I ventured into the captivating world of Akbari Sarai, a stunning historical structure that holds tales from different eras. Despite its name, this remarkable sarai was initiated during the reign of Islam Shah Suri in the mid-1550s, not during the rule of the renowned Mughal Emperor Akbar. The rich history surrounding this place is simply fascinating.

Upon my arrival at the sarai, I was immediately struck by the majestic mosque dating back to the Suri period. The mosque’s beauty, adorned with intricate decorations, offered a glimpse into the past. As I strolled along the complex, I noticed the cells lining its courtyard, which were added during the Shah Jahan period in the mid-1600s. These cells served as living spaces and storage areas for the belongings of travelers and visitors to the tombs.

In its heyday, Akbari Sarai served as a vital station for wayfarers and even operated as a mail station, or a dāk chowkī. The efficient administration of the sarai was under the watchful eye of a Shāhnā, aided by several assistant caretakers. They ensured that all visitors were well taken care of during their stay. The sarai provided a wide range of amenities, from fodder for animals to hot and cold water, and even bedsteads, all free of charge. Additionally, it boasted the presence of a resident physician and a skilled baker, making it a truly welcoming and well-equipped resting place for travelers.

Like many other sarais, this place seemed to have had a small bazaar bustling between its gates, adding to the vibrant atmosphere of the site. As I soaked in the rich history and imagined the bustling life of the past, my mind couldn’t help but wonder at the stories these ancient walls hold.

However, history is no stranger to changes, and the sarai’s fate underwent transformation during the reign of Maharajah Ranjit Singh. He converted the complex into a cantonment for one of his esteemed foreign generals, Musa Farangi, and his platoon. Unfortunately, the British era left its mark on the site, using it as a rail depot after the construction of a nearby rail line, resulting in some damage to this majestic structure.

 

Akbari Sarai presents itself in the form of an oblong quadrangle, covering a vast area of 12 acres. The size is impressive, measuring 797 feet by 610 feet. The sarai’s courtyard is flanked on all sides by a raised terrace adorned with rows of 180 cells, known as khanaha, accompanied by a veranda and a welcoming open passage.

Each corner of the sarai is marked by elegant towers, with the most elaborate chambers among the cells. These tower chambers boast an elliptical hall at the front, a veranda, and an octagonal room at the back, reflecting the grandeur of its architecture.

The sarai’s gateways are nothing short of breathtaking, exuding the grandeur of Mughal style. Two large gateways, facing north and south, were constructed to be visible from afar, adding to the sarai’s allure. The gateway also housed the esteemed shāhnā. The main arch leading to the tomb of Jahangir is an artistic marvel, featuring a large double-storied iwan with four smaller arched niches, showcasing the delicate ghalib kari, a network of ribs in stucco and plaster applied to curved surfaces in each archway. The central iwan’s adornment with muqarnas and the façade’s rich pietra dura decorations left me spellbound. The skill and artistry displayed in these architectural details are awe-inspiring.

Further west, amidst the rows of cells, stands a mosque with three graceful domes. Its red sandstone exterior and intricate decorations hint at its former splendor. I couldn’t help but imagine how the interior might have been embellished with frescoes and ghalib kari, showcasing the exquisite craftsmanship of the past.

As I conclude this memorable day at Akbari Sarai, I feel incredibly fortunate to have experienced such historical grandeur. The rich history, magnificent architecture, and stories of travelers and rulers from bygone eras have left an indelible impression on my heart. This journey has been nothing short of magical, and I can’t wait to explore more treasures from the past on my future adventures.